Posts Tagged ‘router’

Don’t know if this title really says what I want to talk about….

A few weeks ago, I got a job to remove the 1/4″ wood panels from a bunch of cabinet doors and cut a rabbit in the door frames for glass.

Removing the panels was straight forward. the doors are what’s called a “Back Panel” door; meaning the center panel is attached (glued & nailed) to the back of the frame rather than set into a groove cut in the frame. First I drill a hole near one corner of the panel. Then using a flush trim bit and the inside of the door frame as my guide, I rout away the panel from the frame.

The stack of doors after removing back panel

Stack of doors after routing out the center panel

(actually, this picture shows the rabbet too. I forgot to take earlier photos of before & after.)

The next step as a little harder. I needed to cut a rabbet that was 3/8″ wide by 3/8″ deep. Normally, this would be easy too using a rabbeting bit of which I have several. Problem is, I don’t seem to have one that will cut a 3/8″ wide rabbet. Everything else, up to 1/2″ wide, but not 3/8″. So I had to jury-rig a bit & bearing to do the job. (the bearing didn’t quite fit the rabbeting bit’s shaft.)

Rabbeting bit

Once I got things to work (the bearing wouldn’t fall off or run out of round) cutting the rabbet was easy too.

But after routing the rabbet, I needed to square the corners as the bit left them with a 5/8″ radius.

door frame with rabbet for glass

door frame showing the rabbet cut for glass and round corner I need to square

Now, normally, I would use a chisel to square the corners. But I have 17 x 4 = 68 corners to do so chiseling by hand will be a little too slow & costly.

So I made a jig to speed things up.

Corner squaring jig drawing

Computer generated drawing of corner squaring template

Using a computer to lay out the template helps in determining just how deep the template’s corner notch needs to be so the 3/16″ bit doesn’t cut too deep or too shallow into the rabbet.

Now, this set up will also leave a radiused corner but it has gone from 5/8″ to 3/32″. So the glass should fit fine if it’s cut with a little wiggle room.

corner routing jig in place

The corner routing jig clamped in place

corner routed square

corner after routing with 3/16" bit

The end result is a pretty good looking corner, IMHO.


Read Full Post »

It’s amazing! I have a little more room in my shop.  I got the computer station finished up and installed with the help of a friend who knows installation.  I’m glad I had his help. I am surprised at how out of plumb or square the room is, considering that it’s a new addition. From wall forward, the floor drops by 1/4″ in 24″.  across the width of the alcove the floor has a hump in the middle that is matched by a bump out from the wall. It required a lot of shims to get the “toe kick” leveled for the cabinets. Then, in addition, the windows slope from right to left by close to 1/2″ over 13-1/2 ft. (This is greater than the slope in the floor.) Wouldn’t be a problem but for the fact that the desk top barely fit under the window trim. I had 1/8″ clearance on the left hand side and had to re-level the toe kicks to get that much clearance.

The outlet holes lined up pretty good because I had made a full size template of the outlets before cutting the cabinet backs. I have to admit the holes are a stark contrast to the cabinet backs but the client seems to be ok with it. I suggested sliding covers but with plugs in the outlets, the covers would probably have to be in the opened position anyway.

Here are some picts:

Read Full Post »

Well, I’ve really been derelict at getting more info & pictures taken of the computer desk’s top. Had to stop for a week to make some trunk panels for Sunbeam Tigers (a sports car) My next batch, I’ll have to take some pictures to show how it’s done without CNC equipment. (With a lot more effort is how it’s done!)

Let’s see, this batch of pictures start out with me using my template to scribe my client’s wall. it’s difficult in that I didn’t have enough sawhorses to support the template well. I do have a lot of bracing so the 1/4″ MDF doesn’t flex.

Next pictures show all the pieces that make up the top. I don’t have the equipment (or shop size) to mill stock as long as 13-1/2 feet. Also showing are the mortises for rejoining the boards when the rough cutting is done. The Domino® by Festool  is a great machine. (maybe I’ve said this before) To me, it’s easier to use than doweling jigs and gives a greater glue surface. It doesn’t replace a biscuit cutter though. Biscuit cutters are very good for aligning two surfaces (as in edge laminations).

After that, I have the rough layup of the frame. It may be hard to see, but I have a pen line showing the layout of the stone. I’ll rough cut each section to this line on the bandsaw.

I don’t have pictures of the cutting nor of the actual flush trimming. After the rough cuts I reassembled the frame & bolted it all in place (using draw bolts used for pulling countertops together). I glued up the frame front and back but not the short end pieces connecting the front & back. (Why, you ask? Because I have to get it into the house. And the only way to do that will be to go through a window (shown in the first pictures) and the fully assembled frame won’t fit through the window.)

The template is clamped to the frame (Oh! I forgot to mention that prior to all this, I cut the template to the scribe lines & will transfer the scribe to the frame.) then flipped it over. I have pretty long flush trim bits but they aren’t long enough to trim the whole thickness of the top, so I had to cut a rabbit into the frame to give some clearance.  I cut the frame flush to the template with a lot of clamps dispersed along the lengths to make sure the two stay in alignment. Then I recut the rabbit 1/4″ wide by 3/4″ deep. Next I cut out the substrate to fit in the rabbit. This cut doesn’t have to be so accurate, just close. (the substrate is the prefinished Maple ply seen in many of the pictures sitting on top of the cabinetry.) With the plywood cut out, I used a simple Porter Cable pocket hole cutter to cut pocket holes for screwing the substrate to the frame.

In the final pictures, I have wrapped the maple ply with paper to protect it from finish when I spray the top. I put one piece of the stone in place to see if it fits and see how it looks.

Hopefully, I can insert the pictures in proper order so you can kind of see the progression. Click on an image to bring up more information.

Read Full Post »

Granite/Marble cut for the computer's Desktop

I’d say where this computer station is from, but my client (a good friend) might read it.  I won’t say how long I’ve been working on it — off & on, but we’ve had at least one change of Administrations since I started.

The cabinet work is pretty straight forward. It’s 13’6″ long and about 32″ high. Built low to the ground to give as much usable height as possible. It sits under a bank of windows. There are 9 drawers and 6 pull out shelves including a pull out keyboard tray with special drop front. Wood is Cherry solids & plys. Finish is a cherry wine stain from WD Lockwood under a Bartley’s Pennsylvania Cherry gel stain. Top coat is General Finishes Enduro Poly.

The cabinetry has been done for a while. It’s the top that is causing my night sweats. The picture above shows the Granite and Marble that has been cut to resemble a river flowing. (I didn’t do the stone.)  My job now is to make a frame around the stone that fits snugly against all the curves. The frame is 8/4 cherry planed to 1-11/16″ thick.  Did I mention it’s 163″ long and fits between two walls?

The pictures to follow show the process to make the pattern I’ll use to cut the inside of the frame. Click on images to get more info

Now, I don’t know if it’s real clear why I made two patterns. The first pattern is an exact replica of the stone. Because I use 1/2″ flush trim router bits, I have to reduce that first pattern by 1/2″ all around. Then I tack it onto the second pattern blank. The second pattern’s outside is the exact size of the desk top. I position the 1st pattern exactly where I want the stone to sit within the final cherry desk top (the frame). When I rout the 2nd pattern. the 1/2″ flush trim bit follows the first pattern as it cuts away waste on the 2nd pattern. the bit also removes 1/2″ more mdf from the 2nd pattern than the size of the first pattern. If I don’t reduce the 1st pattern by 1/2″, then the 2nd pattern will have a 1/2″ trough between it and the stone. Not a snug fit at all.

All clear now?  (Like mud?)

Next time I’ll show the cherry frame work.

Read Full Post »