Archive for March, 2010

Well, I’ve really been derelict at getting more info & pictures taken of the computer desk’s top. Had to stop for a week to make some trunk panels for Sunbeam Tigers (a sports car) My next batch, I’ll have to take some pictures to show how it’s done without CNC equipment. (With a lot more effort is how it’s done!)

Let’s see, this batch of pictures start out with me using my template to scribe my client’s wall. it’s difficult in that I didn’t have enough sawhorses to support the template well. I do have a lot of bracing so the 1/4″ MDF doesn’t flex.

Next pictures show all the pieces that make up the top. I don’t have the equipment (or shop size) to mill stock as long as 13-1/2 feet. Also showing are the mortises for rejoining the boards when the rough cutting is done. The Domino® by Festool  is a great machine. (maybe I’ve said this before) To me, it’s easier to use than doweling jigs and gives a greater glue surface. It doesn’t replace a biscuit cutter though. Biscuit cutters are very good for aligning two surfaces (as in edge laminations).

After that, I have the rough layup of the frame. It may be hard to see, but I have a pen line showing the layout of the stone. I’ll rough cut each section to this line on the bandsaw.

I don’t have pictures of the cutting nor of the actual flush trimming. After the rough cuts I reassembled the frame & bolted it all in place (using draw bolts used for pulling countertops together). I glued up the frame front and back but not the short end pieces connecting the front & back. (Why, you ask? Because I have to get it into the house. And the only way to do that will be to go through a window (shown in the first pictures) and the fully assembled frame won’t fit through the window.)

The template is clamped to the frame (Oh! I forgot to mention that prior to all this, I cut the template to the scribe lines & will transfer the scribe to the frame.) then flipped it over. I have pretty long flush trim bits but they aren’t long enough to trim the whole thickness of the top, so I had to cut a rabbit into the frame to give some clearance.  I cut the frame flush to the template with a lot of clamps dispersed along the lengths to make sure the two stay in alignment. Then I recut the rabbit 1/4″ wide by 3/4″ deep. Next I cut out the substrate to fit in the rabbit. This cut doesn’t have to be so accurate, just close. (the substrate is the prefinished Maple ply seen in many of the pictures sitting on top of the cabinetry.) With the plywood cut out, I used a simple Porter Cable pocket hole cutter to cut pocket holes for screwing the substrate to the frame.

In the final pictures, I have wrapped the maple ply with paper to protect it from finish when I spray the top. I put one piece of the stone in place to see if it fits and see how it looks.

Hopefully, I can insert the pictures in proper order so you can kind of see the progression. Click on an image to bring up more information.


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